FROM TAPAS TOP MEZE

The countries that circle the Mediterranean share more than the sea''s azure waters. They share a love of first courses -- tapas from Spain, hors d''oeuvres and entrees from France, Italy''s antipasti and primi piatti, mezethes from Greece, and the meze of the Levant and North Africa. These small dishes reflect the region''s extraordinary bounty, its reliance on seasonal produce, and its emphasis on straightforward preparation. More than 220 recipes demonstrate both the unity and the variety of Mediterranean cuisine. Olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, onions, and fresh herbs are the foundation of all Mediterranean cooking. But what a tremendous range of flavors and textures emanate from those ingredients! Often one brilliant idea is manipulated differently by each cuisine. Take flat bread: In Spain we find Coca de la Huerta, a summer vegetable flat bread from the Balearic Islands. France offers Provence''s Pissaladiere, laced with anchovies, onions, and olives. You''re probably familiar with Italy''s great flat breads (like Focaccia con Gorgonzola e Pinoli), but have you ever tasted Lahmacun, a Turkish lamb and tomato pizza, spiced with cinnamon, allspice, and cloves?